Facing the storm is the whole job here. Wind comes down the canyons, snow sits on north slopes into March, and July sun bakes the south side until the shingles go brittle. Most people start looking at replacement after a leak, or after they notice the roof looks tired from the driveway — curling edges, bald patches, granules in the gutters.
A replacement means the old roofing comes off down to the deck. We look at the wood underneath, fix what is rotten, and build the roof back up in layers: underlayment, flashing, ventilation, then the new roofing itself. Done right, you stop thinking about it.
What the job involves
The first step is tear-off. Old shingles and old underlayment come off so the decking is visible. You cannot judge a deck through a layer of roofing, and layering new over old hides the problems that caused the leak in the first place.
Then we read the deck. Soft spots, delamination, old patches, nail holes where someone fixed something years ago. Bad sheathing gets cut out and replaced. This is the part nobody can quote exactly up front, because it is under the roof.
Next comes the weatherproofing. Ice and water membrane in the valleys, along eaves, and around anything that penetrates the roof. Synthetic underlayment over the rest of the field. Then drip edge at the eaves and rakes.
Flashing is where most roofs actually fail. Step flashing along walls, counterflashing at chimneys, new boots on plumbing vents, collars on furnace and water heater flues. Reusing old flashing to save money is how you end up back here in three years.
Ventilation gets checked and corrected. Intake at the soffits, exhaust at the ridge, balanced so the attic breathes. Then the roofing goes on — architectural shingles for most homes here, with starter course and ridge cap to match.
Cleanup is part of the work, not a favor. Magnet sweep of the yard and driveway, debris hauled off.
-
Full tear-off to the deck
-
Decking inspection and replacement of rotted sheathing
-
Ice and water membrane at valleys, eaves, and penetrations
-
Synthetic underlayment and new drip edge
-
New step, wall, and chimney flashing
-
New pipe boots and flue collars
-
Intake and exhaust ventilation checked and corrected
-
New shingles, starter course, and ridge cap
-
Debris haul-off and magnet sweep
When you need it, and when you don't
Replace it when the problem is the roof itself, not one spot on it. Shingles curling or cupping across whole slopes. Bare patches where the granules are gone and the mat shows through. Multiple leaks in different places. A deck that feels spongy underfoot.
Age matters too, but only alongside condition. A roof that looks fine at twenty years may have a few seasons left. A roof that lost half its granules by year twelve does not.
Here is the honest half. One leak around a vent boot is a repair, not a replacement. Wind that lifted a dozen shingles off one slope is a repair. Ice-dam staining on a ceiling often means a ventilation and insulation problem, and a new roof alone will not fix it.
Handle it now if water is actively getting in, or if snow season is close and the roof is already failing. Otherwise, get it looked at, get it in writing, and make the decision on information rather than pressure.
What North Salt Lake does to a roof
We sit at the base of the benches, and roofs here get hit from two directions. Winter brings freeze-thaw cycling — melt at midday, refreeze at night, water working under shingle edges and into any gap in the flashing. That cycle is what builds ice dams at the eaves on shaded slopes.
Then summer flips it. High-elevation UV is harsher than most people expect, and south and west slopes age noticeably faster than north ones. It is common to find one side of a roof almost serviceable and the other side finished.
Canyon wind is the third factor. Gusts coming off the mountains catch shingle edges and ridge caps, especially on homes with long exposed rakes.
A lot of housing stock through Bountiful and Farmington is on its second or third roof now, which means layered work, patched decking, and old flashing details that were never redone. We find that regularly on tear-off.
What it costs, and what moves the price
We will not put a number on a page, because a roof is measured, not guessed. What we can tell you is exactly what moves it.
Size, first — total squares of roof surface, which is not the same as your home's square footage. Pitch next. Steep roofs need staging and slow the work down. Height and access matter too: a walkable one-story is a different job from a three-story with a tight side yard and no place for a dump trailer.
Complexity drives more cost than people expect. Valleys, dormers, skylights, chimneys, and multiple roof planes all mean more flashing and more cutting.
Material choice changes the range — three-tab, architectural, impact-rated, or metal. Layers of old roofing to remove add disposal. And decking is the real variable. You pay for the sheets you need, and nobody knows the count until the old roof is off.
How the job runs
.
.
.
.
.
Roof replacement questions
How do I know if I need a replacement or just a repair?
Repairs fix isolated failures — one boot, one valley, one wind-lifted section. Replacement is for roofs failing across whole slopes, or where the decking underneath has gone bad.
Can you roof over the existing shingles?
Code sometimes allows it, but we do not recommend it. You cannot inspect or repair decking you cannot see, and the new roof inherits every flaw below it.
What happens if you find rotten decking?
We show you, replace what needs replacing, and tell you what it adds before we cover it up. No decking work happens as a surprise on the final bill.
Can I get a replacement in winter?
Shingles seal best in warm weather, and snow on the deck is a real limitation. Winter work happens, but weather sets the schedule, not us.
Will a new roof stop my ice dams?
It helps, especially with membrane at the eaves. But ice dams are usually an attic heat and ventilation problem, so we look at that too rather than just reroofing over it.
Is my storm damage covered by insurance?
That is your adjuster's decision, and nobody can promise an outcome. What we can do is document what we find on the roof so you have something concrete to submit.
Do I need to be home during the work?
Not for the whole job, but we like you there for the initial walk and the final one. Move vehicles out of the driveway and plan for noise.
What about my landscaping and gutters?
We tarp what we can and work carefully around plantings. If gutters are old and dented, replacement is worth discussing while the roof is already open.
What material should I choose?
Architectural shingles suit most homes along the Wasatch Front. Metal costs more up front and lasts longer. We will walk the options against your roof, not a brochure.
Related work
Not sure replacement is what you need yet? Start with a roof inspection. If the problem is one area, see roof repair. After wind or hail, look at storm damage roof repair, or emergency roof repair if water is coming in now.
Get a look at it
The only way to know what your roof needs is for someone to get up there and look. Call White Ridge Roofing at (801) 880-7663 and we will come out, inspect it, and tell you straight what we find.
Call (801) 880-76635.0 from 31 Google reviews
954 Mink Cir, North Salt Lake, UT 84054